It`s about 4.30 am when we get up in the guesthouse to reach the local bus to Bhandar, the small village, where we are going to start our trekking tour. Kathmandu is quite silent and the streets to Ratna Park Bus Station are almost empty. Another kind of experiencing the town. The bus starts on time whith lots of people even sitting on the roof of the bus. Festival time is starting and many people want to celebrate with their families in their hometowns and villages so busses are highly frequented this time.
Cause the bus needs to stop many times, picking up passengers, getting fuel, waiting because of the traffic jams at the gas stations (actually there is a fuel crisis in nepal) and some causes we did not really understand, it took the entire day to get to Shivalaya. As people in the bus try to explain to us, the bus will not drive to Bhandar, cause the road is not passable. So we stay the night in Shivalaya and start walking next day attended by a nice nepali guy and his mother.
The next days we are trekking in eastern direction, passing several small villages and settlements and spending the nights in different lodges. The first days no other tourist are on the way or in the lodges. Most of them start their tours from Lukla, using planes to get there. Every day our tours are about 6 to 7 hours walk…..up and down…..and up and down….and again up and down. Carrying all of our luggage on our own this is something you need to get used to. Sometimes the days feel just like a combination of walking, eating and sleeping and the same again. But the exhausting it sometimes is, the impressive are all of the different experiences. Great landscapes, nice people, different culture. The farer we go the more buddhistic and tibetian influenced everything gets.
In Taksindo we meet Anrag, who is going to guide us to Kala Phatar and Everest B.C.
Our way now changes more and more in nothern direction. After passing Lukla tourits become more on the way and all the ways must be shared with donkeys and buffs. Sometimes this is getting really hard work, cause the donkeys of course do not care if you have enough space. Moreover the ways are full of donkey and buff shit, which makes them really muddy and slippery together with the rain, we unfortunately have several times.
….It`s the second day in Namche Bazaar. We needed to stay one day longer, cause I got a bad cold and after that problems with my stomache. To get used to the altitude we go up to Everest View Point and what we get to see from there is absolutely amazing. Although it`s little cloudy and Everest is hiding as if he wants to make it especially difficult for use we get the first view. And there are so much more of these incredible mountains, Lhotse, Nupse and all in front of us Ama Dablam, that will attend us along the further way.
As the cold is getting better we continue getting up passing Tengboche and Pheriche finally reaching Thukla up on 4700 m. No donkeys or buffs anymore, but the popular Yaks now.
It`s getting more and more cold….really cold. Cause the daily tours are not that long anymore to get used to altitude, we are forced to spend a lot of time in cold rooms. Sometimes in the night the windows are frozen inside.
On the way to Thukla Seven is not feeling well….We are not lucky. Their seem to be no significant recovery, especially cause the altitude makes breathing even more harder. On the third day Seven is feeling only little better and I wake up with fever myself, so we decide to go down and stop trying to reach Kala Pathar or Everest B.C. It`s a long hard walk down to Dewoche for me that day. Of course there is no other possibility than to walk. Fever, bad headache and growing pains let me walk like in trance or like a robot. Anrag is changing his backpack with me, so I can reduce the weight I need to carry. To reduce altitude more, we walk down the next days passing Monjo, Kharikola and Nunthala.
After 21 days trekking we take the local bus again from Phablu to Kathmandu. 14,5 hours adventourous and “interesting” bus tour, again with no other tourists and several stops, we do not understand again.
Of course, we are little dissappointed and sad not to get up to Kala Patthar and Everest B.C. as planned but we are thankful for all the amazing impressions we got and maybe we come back again.